[Oeva-list] Owner support

Eric Johnson <ejts at comcast.net> ejts at comcast.net
Tue Aug 16 10:05:45 PDT 2005


Hello, all!
I've been helping a gentleman that has come by a couple of our meetings, then bought a cheaply-converted Rabbit.  We got the battery pack and controller hooked up and verified its operation.

There's more to do, which will require tools and advice.

First, the tools:  Has the group gotten a crimper for 2/0 cable?  The only one I know of is John Wayland's, but I thought I'd check here first, since he hasn't been around much (any, actually) lately.

Then, the advice:  The car has a factory-reconditioned Curtis 1221B 400A controller.  Curtis claims the B doesn't go to 120V, but this one is labelled that it does, so maybe internally is't really now a 1221C.  The car is 120V of Trojans.  The question is:  for a series-wound motor, like this forklift motor, that doesn't have the A2 connection between the field and armature brought out, does one simply leave that connection of the Curtis open?  It seems that the controller uses this for the free-wheel diode.  Everything had been disconnected before I ever saw the car, but it had operated for some time without known problems.  Therefore, I assume that this was the way it was run (we did get it working apparently properly this way.

Another question:  Does the Curtis get along okay without a pre-charge resistor?  Since the car doesn't appear to ever had one, I assume that it works, epecially with these floode batteries.  Our careful test showed no problem, but how about in the long run?

If anyone familiar with Curtis could provide any advice for this arrangement, I'd really appreciate it.

And don't forget the crimper!

--
Eric Johnson
Amateur EV mechanic
ejts at comcast.net
503-348-6392




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