[Oeva-list] Owner support
csbrune_ev at comcast.net
Sun Aug 21 21:20:42 PDT 2005
For 120V units Curtis recommends a 750 ohm 20watt (or higher) resistor.
----- Original Message -----
From: <ejts at comcast.net>
To: <oeva-list at oeva.org>
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2005 10:05 AM
Subject: [Oeva-list] Owner support
> Hello, all!
> I've been helping a gentleman that has come by a couple of our meetings,
then bought a cheaply-converted Rabbit. We got the battery pack and
controller hooked up and verified its operation.
> There's more to do, which will require tools and advice.
> First, the tools: Has the group gotten a crimper for 2/0 cable? The only
one I know of is John Wayland's, but I thought I'd check here first, since
he hasn't been around much (any, actually) lately.
> Then, the advice: The car has a factory-reconditioned Curtis 1221B 400A
controller. Curtis claims the B doesn't go to 120V, but this one is
labelled that it does, so maybe internally is't really now a 1221C. The car
is 120V of Trojans. The question is: for a series-wound motor, like this
forklift motor, that doesn't have the A2 connection between the field and
armature brought out, does one simply leave that connection of the Curtis
open? It seems that the controller uses this for the free-wheel diode.
Everything had been disconnected before I ever saw the car, but it had
operated for some time without known problems. Therefore, I assume that
this was the way it was run (we did get it working apparently properly this
> Another question: Does the Curtis get along okay without a pre-charge
resistor? Since the car doesn't appear to ever had one, I assume that it
works, epecially with these floode batteries. Our careful test showed no
problem, but how about in the long run?
> If anyone familiar with Curtis could provide any advice for this
arrangement, I'd really appreciate it.
> And don't forget the crimper!
> Eric Johnson
> Amateur EV mechanic
> ejts at comcast.net
> Oeva-list mailing list
> Oeva-list at oeva.org
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