Elgin Watch Mini-FAQ

Jeff Sexton

Q: What is the difference between an "Elgin" and a "Lord Elgin" watch?

A: "Lord Elgin" is not a different company. The Lord Elgin and Lady Elgin lines began in 1937. They were generally higher end wristwatches.

Q: What is "hunter" style?

A: Hunter style pocket watch cases have a lid that covers the dial. The lid is released by pressing down on the stem. If you have a hunter style case it is important to always press the stem down when closing the watch lid as well, rather than "clicking" it closed. The catch on a hunter case wears out very quickly otherwise. If the catch wears down, the watch case will no longer stay closed.

A pocketwatch that does not have a lid over the face is called an "open face" watch.

Q: What is "railroad grade"?

A: "Railroad grade" refers to watches that met certain requirements and standards for accuracy and design as set down by the railroad industry. One of the main things about railroad grade pocketwatches is that they are lever-set, not stem-set. It was thought that stem-set watches were too easily reset by accident.

Elgin made many railroad grade watches and proudly promoted this in their advertising.

Q: What is "overwound"?

A: Many times old watches are described as "overwound". But all this really means is that the watch is wound up all the way, but will not run. Technically, you cannot overwind most mechanical wrist and pocket watches. The use of force in winding, when the watch will wind no further, will break something, and the spring will give way. A mechanical watch is designed to wind up all the way, until you cannot easily wind it up further. When a watch is described as "overwound", it just means that it has a problem causing it not to run. It could be that it needs routine maintenence, cleaning and oiling, or it could be more serious, like a broken part.

Q: What is "lever set"?

A: Most watches we know today are "stem set". A stem set watch is set to correct time by pulling the stem out by the crown and turning it to move the hands. A lever set watch does not change to its set mode by pulling the stem out. Instead, there is a small lever to be pulled out from behind the dial. It generally requires removing the bezel to access. Pulling the lever out allows the crown to be turned to set the watch. When the lever is in it's normal, retracted position then turning the crown winds the watch (unless the watch is key-wind of course). The pictures below show a setting lever. Note that the bezel has been removed.

A grade 82 Elgin, G. M. Wheeler model made in 1883, showing the setting lever retracted.

Lever extended, ready for setting.

Q: My watch is lever-set, why does the crown pull out to a second position?

A: The stem pulling outward is actually a function of the watch case, not the watch movement itself, inside. Many cases have this feature since they would work with both lever and stem set watches. On a lever-set watch, with such a case, the outward stem position does nothing. The watch will wind or set either way, according to the position of the lever.

Q: How old is my Elgin watch?

A: Elgin movements are stamped with a serial number. Elgin watch serial numbers can be used to determine their grade and the approximate year of manufacture. The year is not exact though since it was not usual for watches to leave the factory out of sequence, and because Elgin frequently made plates that were stockpiled and not actually used for years after they where originally engraved.

The following table of Elgin watch serial numbers oringinally appeared in the Northwest Jeweler, December 1947. The information was provider by Mr. L. L. Doty, Assistant General Time Inspector for the Ball Railroad Time Service.

Year	Movement Number
1942	39,147,000
1941	38,777,000
1940	38,410,000
1939	38,400,000
1938	37,000,000
1935	36,000,000
1930	33,000,000
1925	28,000,000
1920	23,000,000
1915	15,500,000
1910	15,000,000
1905	12,000,000
1900	9,000,000

Note that this number is on the works of the watch itself, and not on the inside of the watch case. Watch case makers also numbered their products. But the case number is not of much help in determining the age of an Elgin watch.

Q: 12s, 16s, 18s, What is the deal with watch sizes?

A: The Lancashire Gauge for determining watch sizes is of English origin, although its exact roots are not known. In this system, 1 5/30th of an inch is taken to be a base figure of zero lignes (pronounced as "lines"). The measure is across the widest part of the dial-side of the movement, and is thus used for round and non-round movements. Every 1/30th of an inch added in size is one ligne. Sizes smaller than zero are designated with a slash or a comma and numbers ascending. For example 6/0, 8/0 and 20/0 lignes are decreasing watch sizes.

Common Elgin pocketwatch sizes are 18, 16, 12, 8 and 6 lignes. Here are some examples of the sizes.

A virtual Elgin Museum

Elgin watches restored, cleaned and serviced

Regarding the care and cleaning of pocketwatches

More About Elgin Watches

Pocketwatches For Sale

eBay auctions including restored Elgin pocketwatches, a different watch most weeks. Contact me, jsexton@agora.rdrop.com, for information on other watches that may be available.