PRINT FINISHING

by Ted Peterson
This article was first given to my students when I was teaching a camera class in 1994. Even though this was some time ago the ideas are as good today as it was then. I printed a booklet back then and I sent out over 1,000. I hope that it help you.
Print finishing is a matter of presentation. Many pictures never get the breaks that they deserve in salons and exhibitions only because they are presented ineffectively. There is much more to displaying a picture than merely tacking it up on a wall for the people to look at. A picture is not complete until it is given adequate presentation by proper drying, mounting, etching, spotting, protection, and titling.
Ferrotyping -- The plates used must be perfectly free from scratches and other defects, Since the print takes the form of the surface onto which it is pressed. If you have scratches on them they will show up on the prints. Black enameled plates should be cleaned with Ferrotype Plate Polish, and chrome plates with Bon Ami in cake form. It is important to squeegee all water from the print.
There is another article on this web page called a"Ferrotype Print Overnight", read that article. You can use heat to speed up the ferrotyping of Black and White prints if you use tins. On color you have to check the high temperature that you can used before the print goes bad. Check instructions that comes with the paper.
Drying -- A blotter roll can be used to produce a matte surface. Place prints between blotters that are rolled up and surrounded by corrugated cardboard that allows air circulation. Before placing prints in a blotter roll, wipe then with a viscose sponge to avoid water spots, rippled edges, and uneven drying. To help the drying process you may set the blotter rolls so that fan a blows into the end. You can use some low heat.
Heaters can be used for quick drying. DO NOT use heat in drying toned prints: otherwise, the tone may be changed in hue or strength, and it's even possible to lose complete tone.
Mounting -- Mounting tissue provides a quick, safe, and permanent means of mounting prints. The dry-mounting tissue is coated on both sides with a thermo-adhesive material which will fuse to both the mounting surface and the back of the print. It can be used with an automatic household iron set between silk and wool or a dry mounting press. Start the iron from the center and work out to the sides.
If you have the use of a mounting press, you can save a lot of time on black and white and color prints. Be careful with using a mounting press with color. Make sure that it is not too hot.
Sub mounting is a method in which art paper usually enhances prints smaller than 16X20 when mounted on 16X20 mounts. This is one way of providing borders. Ask for construction paper at any art store. They comes in many colors.
Colored mounts, such as black or gray, can be used to emphasize a certain type of picture. When using colored mounts, be sure that the back of the mount is white so that proper indentification can be written on it when sent to competitions.
You can mount your pictures on plywood or hardboard if you want a hard surface.
By use of a mat cutter, from any art store, or an Xacto guide and knife, you can use an overlay mat. Mount your picture on the first mount and then cut out the center of another mount with the cutter and then mount the over mount on top of the first mount.
You can mount prints by other ways. In place of the mounting tissue you can use an item called Spary Mount, sold by MMM. Do not use rubber cement as it will stain the prints. Try any other cement before you use it. Tape will not work.
Etching -- A good surgical steel knife should be used. Scrape, do not dig, the emulsion. Etching should always be done before ferrotyping: spotting after. You can use a item called Spot off.
Spotting -- Apply Spottone or spotting colors to a print by means of a good sable spotting brush. Try a #1 or a #0. Use a dotting, not a stroking motion.
Titling -- Add the title in the lower left hand corner below the print. Print the maker's name in the lower right corner to match the title. Maker's name and address should be on the back of the mount. Some people will leave out the title and name on the front, but if you do make sure it is on the back.
Some people will draw a small line around the print about 1/4 inch outside the mounted print. This is use to accent the print.
Protection -- Use paste wax such as Simonize or Johnson's. It can be applied to matte or glossy surfaces. Apply with a smooth cloth, and rub it down with a clean soft, flannel cloth. Spray-on type Krylon Crystal Clear Coating #1303 can be sprayed evenly and lightly on matte prints. It also serves to add additional snap. There are some liquid mat finish items on the market that you can use to make flannel or other type of surfaces that you can use. Try them first to make sure that they will work before you put them on your prints.
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