Feast at Chateau de Talmont
A Feast of 14th Century France
Saturday, May 10, 2003
Cloverleaf Bldg,
Washington Co. Fairgrounds
Every dish in this feast was documented to France between the years 1360-1420. A great deal of the presentation and theme were based on the 'Arrangements for the wedding done by Master Helye in May' found in Le Ménagier de Paris which is dated circa 1393. This was my guideline for late 14th century French feasting as both a concept as well as an execution. Quite a few modern conceptions were turned about in my researches. Butter, ubiquitous to modern French food, is all but non-existent in late 14th century French cuisine. Sauces were never thickened with any sort of flour or starch. Sugar is a spice. Salads were rare and not mentioned in feasting. In some cases, color and presentation seem to be far more important than actual taste. I have followed all of these guidelines save that of taste; all the dishes presented here were taste-tested beforehand by mixed groups of people and some modifications were made to make them truly pleasant to the palate. However, authenticity was retained throughout. It most certainly is possible to create a feast based on a single time and place in period without resorting to modernisms and I pray that the feaster enjoys the final result as much as the Head Cook enjoyed putting it all together.
Madame Teceangl Bach,
Head Cook, Arts/Chateau
Most recipes are based on a combination of the original source translation and the modern adaptations given in one of three books:
Early French Cookery by D. Eleanor Scully and Terence ScullyOriginal sources were:
The Medieval Kitchen by Odile Redon, Françoise Sabban, & Silvano serventi
Pleyn Delit by Constance B. Hieatt, Brenda Hosington, and Sharon Butler
Le Ménagier de Paris translated by Janet Hinson - http://www.daviddfriedman.com/Medieval/Cookbooks/Menagier/Menagier_Contents.htmlAdditionally, recipes and notes from the following sources were utilized in some manner:
Du fait de cuisine translated by Elizabeth Cook - http://www.daviddfriedman.com/Medieval/Cookbooks/Du_Fait_de_Cuisine/du_fait_de_c_contents.html
le viandier Taillevent - http://staff-www.uni-marburg.de/~gloning/vi-vat.htm
"A Boke of Gode Cookery" - http://www.godecookery.com/In many cases the modern adaptation omitted certain ingredients present in the original text or substituted common ingredients instead of the original period ones. As most, if not all, of the period ingredients are actually available to the cook willing to go scavenger hunting through ethnic and specialty groceries, these recipes differ from the published modern adaptations in ingredients; as well many amounts were adjusted to better meet the original descriptions. The yields on the recipes given here vary greatly because they were figured from the feast-sized recipes actually cooked and portion sizes were based on the full course of five dishes. The recipes herein were reconfigured for modern American ideas of portions rather than medieval 15-dish feast portions. Powdered or ground spices were used unless otherwise specified.
"Cariadoc's Miscellany" - http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/cariadoc/miscellany.html
"Medieval/Renaissance Food Homepage" - http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/food.html
"Glossary Of Medieval & Renaissance Culinary Terms" http://www.thousandeggs.com/glossary.html
"Cooking from Primary Sources: Some General Comments" by David Friedman and Elizabeth Cook - http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/cariadoc/cooking_from_primary_sources.html
The Feudal Gourmet series of booklets published by the Madrone Culinary Guild
Here begins the things to be served for the Feast at Chateau Talmont by Madame Teceangl, cook for the Lord and Lady Talmont, in the year of Our Lord one thousand three hundred and seventy eight, written by her own hand for she is also a literate person in addition to being a most learned and accomplished cook. And first the introduction in which are mentioned that which must be remembered if one is to be successful, that is, effort is what creates result and no result not worth good effort should be attempted at all.
In epulo posita vera felicitas.
To all, the noble and revered lords and ladies, greetings and reverence, with the desire to bring to you pleasure I offer my humble and devoted respects, as it is my desire, being learned and competent in the science and art of cookery, to leave in writing for you a catalogue of the knowledge of how to make a feast balanced for the health of those who would partake of it, and so I am encouraged, not without great difficulty and great labor, to undertake this work to accomplish this writing in the manner which follows.
And first, to be held a most honorable feast at which there are those of great and lesser estate, and nobles also a great number, there are needed, for the making of the feast in a most honorable manner, to honor the lord and lady who is giving said feast, the things which follow. I am no physician, nor do I presume to be one of that noble and learned profession, yet as a cook I am subject to the commands of those who are knowledgeable, and I must humbly and obediently follow the will of those who are versed in such things, and as I have a low standing and know and have learned too little because through ignorance and negligence I have never sufficiently improved my understanding, and also because I have no books nor writings made concerning this, these things which I now write are only what my most feeble memory has reminded me and so if there is flaw it is my dishonor, yet I must obey the need to present such knowledge so there might be understanding of how to not endanger the health of those who would partake of the feast.
And first, the elements, being earth and air, fire and water, and the humors, those being blood, choler, phlegm and melancholy, and how all should be balanced. And the degrees are one through four, or also mild, moderate, and severe, and the properties are hot, cold, dry and moist, and humans are warm in the second degree and moist in the second degree, therefore the food a man eats must balance and preserve him. Warmth and moistness is the essence of the air and conveys a sanguine temperament, warmth and dryness is choleric and is realized by fire, cold and moist is the quality of water and make a phlegmatic temperament, the properties of earth are coldness and dryness which make melancholy. The way of preparation imparts properties also, to roast is to warm and dry, to boil is to warm and moisten, to bake is to moderately warm and moderately dry, beef is dry, pork is moist, fish is cold and moist, young meats are moister than old, to fry is to warm, wine is warm in the second degree and dry in the second degree. And to blend is to balance, and so food is to be well-considered and blended.
Again, slices for Lent, combining the said fruits which are moist in a high amount, that is the third degree, but the drying of the fruit removes some of the moistness and the mixing of the fruit with the almond milk and with the sugar, both which are warm and moist in the second degree and therefore perfectly balanced with the nature of the human body, and with bread which is dry, makes it a safe food which is ideal to the opening of the stomach and the stoking of the fires within which cook the food after it is eaten.
And to impart understanding to you of the tourtes Parmeriennes, know that the pork which is moist and the fruit which is also moist have been mixed with spices which are warm and dry and have been baked in the protection of a good coffin so that the baking does not dry too much, and so the result is good. And the brouet vert is made from moist broth tempered with warm and dry cheese and herbs that are dry, and so it is good. Also, the feve frese en poitage are made with the onions fried, so the excess moisture therein may be taken away, and it is made safe. And the rosseolles, which are made of moist pork and moist fruit are fried, and the moisture is taken away, so they are safe. And the flons, made of the milk of almonds which is moist in the second degree and warm in the second degree, and sugar which is the same, and are baked in the protection of good coffins, and so you can consume them freely for they are balanced and also safe.
Again, the calaminee with pork, and the Cold Sage with chicken, the meat is boiled and made moist and the sauces are of dry things, that is spices, and verjuice, and vinegar, and so together they are safe. And the poix, which are of the earth and are dry, are cooked in good milk of cows, which is of the same nature as humans, and so they are made good. Also, the alloyaux of beef, which is by nature dry, and is dressed also with spices which are dry, is also mixed with marrow for moistness, and a good sauce. The faire tourte is of greens and herbs, which are dry, and both old, dry cheese and new, soft cheese, and the soft cheese is of good quantity and the coffin sturdy and so it is safe. And the herissons are of moist pork and dry ginger, and sugar, and are made good.
For the gelee that is cold and dry, and is good for bile but makes the blood coldish, and so the meats within are boiled and roasted to impart warmth, and the spices are likewise warm, and chicken is also warm, and so the balance avoids making the temperament melancholy, and is wholly good and praiseworthy. And the greens in the milk of almonds are dry, though the almond milk is warm and moist, and they are fried also, so they are safe. Also, the blanc mengier, which is made with the rice, that is moderately cool and moderately dry, and the milk of almonds is moderately warm and moderately moist, and into it is added sugar, which is like almond milk in temperament, and chicken, which is warm, and ginger in quantities not so much as to add dryness, and so it is ideal for the humors. And the rissoles, so you will understand, are made from cool fruit, and the apple has been baked, also warm spices, and are fried so the moisture is lessened, and are safe and good.
Now it is necessary to close the stomach and leave it warm to begin the cooking process of the food eaten, and so the hippocras of apples, warm with spices, and the wafers, warm and moist with sugar, and the candied orange peels, warm with spices and moist with sugar, all may be consumed well, and know that they are good and they will close the stomach, and that you have eaten well. And now you should know that Master Chiquart, who is cook to the most powerful, very renowned, most high Duke of Savoy, hath said, "Who wishes to maintain his body in health and resist the epidemic should have joy, flee sadness, leave the place where the sickness is, and frequent joyous company, drink good wine, use clean food, make good odors to oppose the foul smell, and not go out if it is not fair and clear."
2 cups almond milk
1/3 cup superfine sugar
4-5 slices dried bread without crusts, diced small
pinch saffron threads steeped in 1 Tbsp. hot water
3/4 cup raisins
3/4 cup chopped dates
10 dried small (Adriatic) figs, chopped
Combine almond milk and sugar and bring just to a boil, add in bread crumbs and stir until smooth. Stir in saffron and water, then add fruit. Cook at a simmer for 10-15 minutes stirring constantly. Pour hot mixture into molds or waxed paper-lined pan and cool.
Pastry:
1 stick of butter
1/4 cup of water
4 strands of saffron, crushed
2 1/3 cups of flour
2 egg whites
Heat butter, water and saffron together in the microwave until the butter is melted. Let cool slightly. Add flour about ½ cup at a time, alternating with egg white, until you reach a good pie dough consistency. Raise a coffin: build a shell with an 8" across flat bottom and 2" sides with crenellations at the top. This works best if you use a glass or ceramic dish with sides as an inside mold and build the pastry up the outside of the dish. Lift the dish out when built. Bake for 10 minutes at 325 degrees.
Filling:
1.5 lbs. cooked (boiled) pork, diced
2.5 tsp. Rafaella's Salsa Fina (ginger, cinnamon, grains of paradise, nutmeg, mace, cloves)
bacon grease
1 cup currants
1 cup pine nuts, ground
1 Tbsp. superfine sugar
1 egg, separated with each part beaten
4 chicken quarters, parboiled (half-cooked)
Mix pork with salsa fina then sauté in hot bacon grease until warm and moist throughout (if too dry, add a little broth). Remove from heat and mix in currants, then ground pine nuts. Consistency should be crumbly. Turn into pastry shell and sprinkle with sugar, brush rim of entire shell with beaten egg white (this will make it shiny). Top tourte with poultry quarters arranged radially. Brush quarters with half of beaten egg yolk. Bake for 45 minutes at 325 degrees. Immediately upon removing from oven, brush chicken quarters with remaining yolk to make them yellow. Tourte may be decorated with banners and standards made from cloth and skewers; use chicken quarters as bases.
Brouet vert d'eoufs et de fromage (Green Brouet of Eggs and Cheese) - Le Viandier de Taillevent
4 servings
2 cups pea puree (1/8 cup dried split peas cooked in 2 cups water until very soft then sent through food processor or blender)
1 cup water
1/2 cup fresh parsley, chopped fine
1 Tbsp. fresh chopped sage
pinch saffron threads
2 slices bread, crustless and crumbled
1/8 tsp. ginger
1 Tbsp. white wine
4 oz shredded parmesan
4 eggs
Soak bread in pea puree. Grind parsley, sage and saffron in a mortar or thoroughly in a food processor until almost paste, add soaked bread and run through again. Poach eggs in water. Dissolve ginger in wine, add to mixture, add water you poached the eggs in and bring to boil over medium heat. Stir in cheese until melted. Serve an egg in each bowl of bruet.
Feve frese en potaige (Puree of Young Fava Beans) - Le Viandier de Taillevent
6 servings
1 pound small dried fava beans
salt
1 pound tart pie apples
4 medium onions
3 Tbsp. olive oil
5 leaves fresh sage
greens on which to serve (I use chard)
On the day before cooking, wash and soak the beans in cool water. Change water at least twice. On cooking day drain the beans and put in a pot with water to cover. Bring to the boil then drain, return beans to the pot and cover with unsalted hot water at least 3" deeper than the level of beans. Cook until beans are tender, drain, and put though a food processor until very smooth. Salt to taste. Peel and slice onions, peel and core the apples and slice thin. Sauté the onions in olive oil until half done then add the apples and sage and cook over low heat until the apples fall apart, about 15 minutes. Reheat bean puree and portion onto greens then top with onion-apple mixture.
Rosseolles de porcelez (Pork Rissoles) - Du fait de cuisine
yield - about 30 small rissoles
Pastry:
1/2 cup warm water
3-4 Tbsp. olive oil
1/2 tsp. salt
pinch saffron
1-1/2 cup flour
OR: egg roll or won ton wrappers (I used these)
Filling:
3/4 pound cooked (boiled in salted water) pork, diced
1/2 cup white wine
3 dried small (Adriatic) figs, chopped
3 prunes, chopped
4 dates, diced
1/3 cup raisins
1/8 cup pine nuts
1/2 tsp. ground ginger
scant pinch saffron
pinch ground grains of paradise
1/3 cup superfine sugar
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
1 egg, beaten
2 oz farmers cheese or other soft cheese
lard for frying
If making the pastry, mix together water, oil, salt and saffron then stir in flour a bit at a time. Turn onto a floured board and knead until smooth. Cover with a damp cloth and let rest 1/2 hour. Roll out dough to the thickness of a dime, cut into preferred shape about 4" across. When filled, seal edges with a mixture of flour water and pinch tight. In large saucepan combine fruit (except pine nuts) and wine and let marinade for 10-15 minutes. Combine sugar and spices and stir into fruit and wine. Simmer mixture on low heat until fruit is tender but not mushy. Combine parsley and cheese; whisk beaten egg into fruit mixture then stir in parsley & cheese. Remove from heat, add cooked pork and pine nuts. Spoon filling into middle of each pastry, fold and seal. Fry in hot (360-375 degree) lard until golden brown, turning once. Sprinkle with sugar. Alternately, rissoles can be baked at 400 degrees for 10-12 minutes.
Flons de lait d'amendres (Almond Milk Flans) - Du fait de cuisine
yield - 12 tartlets
Pastry:
1 stick of butter
1/4 cup of water
4 strands of saffron, crushed
2 1/3 cups of flour
2 egg whites
Heat butter, water and saffron together in the microwave until the butter is melted. Let cool slightly. Add flour about ½ cup at a time, alternating with egg white, until you reach a good pie dough consistency. Build shells in muffin tins, custard cups, or around the outside of a drinking glass. Bake for 10 minutes at 325 degrees.
Filling:
2 cups almond milk, thick
1/4 - 1/3 cups amidon (wheat or rice starch)
pinch saffron
pinch salt
1/2 - 3/4 cup sugar
Using a whisk stir amidon into the almond milk, add saffron, and strain. Stir in salt and sugar and mix well. Pour into warm pastry shells and bake at 375 degrees until set (12-15 minutes). This might take a bit of experimentation to get a good consistency and flavor. Different starches set in different proportions and sweetness is variable to individual taste.
Calaminee:
1/2 lb. pork loin, cooked (boiled), sliced
1 cup pork broth
2 slices bread, crusts removed
2 Tbsp. verjuice
2 hard boiled eggs, white and yolk separated
1/8 tsp grains of paradise
1/4 tsp. ginger
1/4 tsp. pepper
pinch saffron
1 tsp. sugar
1/4 tsp. salt
Soak bread in broth and verjuice. Mash egg yolks and add to bread, stir in spices (sugar is a spice). Cook over low heat, stirring, until thickened. Strain. Dice egg whites. Serve sauce over cold or rewarmed pork, strew with diced egg whites.
Cold Sage:
1/2 lb. chicken, cooked and cut into pieces
1 cup chopped parsley packed loosely
3/4 cup chopped fresh sage packed loosely
1 cup hot chicken broth
2 slices bread, crusts removed
1/2 tsp. ginger
1/4 tsp. grains of paradise
1/4 tsp. pepper
1/4 cup white wine vinegar
Soak bread in broth. Wash parsley and sage, dry thoroughly, and chop fairly fine. Mash bread and stir in herbs. Mix in spices and strain. Mix in vinegar. Serve over cold or rewarmed chicken. Borrow some egg whites from the calaminee and scatter over sauce.
Pois nouveaulx et a jour de poisson (New Peas for a Fish Day) - Le Ménagier de Paris
4-6 servings
1/2 pound fresh baby peas
2 cups whole milk
1/2 Tbsp. ginger
1/8 tsp. saffron
Slowly heat milk to the point of simmering. Stir in the ginger and saffron, blending well. Add the peas and simmer until tender. The peas may either be drained or served with broth.
Alloyaux et Saulse Noir (Little Larks and Black Sauce) - Le Viandier de Taillevent
yield - 6
6 oz. beef or veal
marrow from 2 soup bones
1 1/5 tsp. Rafaella's Salsa Fina (ginger, cinnamon, grains of paradise, nutmeg, mace, cloves)
2 egg yolks, beaten
2 1/2 Tbsp. flour
1-2 Tbsp. water
Soak bamboo skewers or toothpicks in water for an hour. Slice meat into 6 pieces and pound to 1/8 inch thickness. Divide marrow into 6 pieces and place a piece of marrow in the middle of each piece of meat. Sprinkle with salsa fina and wrap marrow in meat; secure with toothpick or skewer. Sprinkle with more salsa fina. Grill or broil 3-4 minutes, turn, and grill on the other side. Beat eggs and whisk in enough flour and water to make a thick batter. Brush larks with batter and return to heat just long enough to bake glaze.
Black Sauce:
1 slice bread
2 Tbsp verjuice
3 Tbsp. white wine vinegar
1 tsp. black pepper
1/4 tsp. ginger
Toast bread until very dark then soak in verjuice and vinegar until it falls apart. Mash bread with fork and stir in spices. Slowly bring to a boil and simmer until thickened. You might want to strain it for a smoother consistency.
Une Faire Tourte (Vegetable-Cheese Tort) - Le Ménagier de Paris
yield - 1 pie
Pastry:
1 stick of butter
1/4 cup of water
4 strands of saffron, crushed
2 1/3 cups of flour
2 egg whites
Heat butter, water and saffron together in the microwave until the butter is melted. Let cool slightly. Add flour about ½ cup at a time, alternating with egg white, until you reach a good pie dough consistency.
Raise a coffin: build a shell with an 8" across flat bottom and 1" sides. This works best if you use a glass or ceramic dish with sides as an inside mold and build the pastry up the outside of the dish. Lift the dish out when built. Bake for 10 minutes at 325 degrees.
Filling:
7 oz. chard leaves
7 oz. spinach
handful of chervil
handful of dill or fennel fronds
8 oz. soft cheese
6 oz. medium cheese
2 eggs, beaten
2 tsp. Rafaella's Salsa Fina (ginger, cinnamon, grains of paradise, nutmeg, mace, cloves)
3 oz. freshly grated parmesan
Wash the greens and herbs very thoroughly. Discard stems, finely chop leaves and dry thoroughly. Beat soft cheese until smooth, add grated medium cheese and the greens. Mix until smooth then add the salsa fina and eggs. Fill the pastry shell and bake at 400 degrees for about an hour.
Herissons (Hedgehogs) - Le Viandier de Taillevent
yield - about 32 hedgehogs
1/2 lb. ground pork
1/2 tsp. ginger
1/4 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. sugar
currants
slivered almonds
Mix pork, ginger, salt and sugar well. Form into golf ball sized hedgehogs with elongated noses. Use currants for eyes and noses, slivered almonds for spines. Bake for 15-20 minutes at 350 degrees, drain on paper towels.
3 packets unflavored gelatin
2 cups white wine
1 cup broth
1/4 lb. pork loin
1/4 lb. chicken
1/4 lb. rabbit
piece of fresh gingerroot the size of an almond
1/2 tsp. whole grains of paradise
1/2 Tbsp. unground mace blades
2 bay leaves
1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar
1/2 tsp. salt
food coloring
Cut the pork, chicken and rabbit into serving portions, wash and dry thoroughly. Crush gingerroot, grains of paradise and mace then enclose with whole bay leaves in a cheesecloth bag tied with clean string. Place meats in pot with white wine, vinegar, salt and spice bag. Simmer for an hour or so until thoroughly cooked. When done, remove meat and spice bag from wine, strain wine. Sprinkle gelatin over cold broth and let sit for a minute, then stir in hot wine and food coloring. Pour over cooked meats in molds, chill until set. Decorating aspics is a must - be creative.
De cresson en karesme au lait d'amandes (Greens for Lent in Almond Milk) - Le Ménagier de Paris
4 servings
4 bunches watercress
handful of Swiss chard leaves
2 cups almond milk
1 Tbsp. olive oil
Trim and wash the greens, chop the chard. Cook the greens in boiling water for about 8 minutes, drain and thoroughly dry. Sauté the greens in oil then add almond milk. Bring to a boil and simmer for about 5 minutes.
Ton et poivre jaunet (Poached Fresh Tuna with Yellow Sauce) - Le Ménagier de Paris
4 servings
1 3/4 lbs. fresh tuna, thickly sliced
sea salt
Wash the fish and pat it dry. Place in a pan with cold water to cover and about 1 heaping Tbsp. of salt per quart of water. Bring to a boil, lower the heat and simmer until done; start checking at about 10 minutes. Serve on a platter topped with Yellow Sauce.
Yellow Sauce:
1 large slice of bread, crustless
10 Tbsp. vegetable broth
3 Tbsp. white wine vinegar
1/2 tsp. ginger
4 threads saffron, crushed
Toast the bread then soak in broth. when soft, mash thoroughly, add ginger and saffron and bring to a boil. Add vinegar and simmer until thickened. You might want to strain the sauce for a smoother consistency.
Blanc mengier (Blancmange) - Le Viandier de Taillevent & Le Ménagier de Paris & Du fait de cuisine
6 servings
1/2 lb. skinless, boneless chicken breasts
4 cups water
1 cup medium grain white rice
2 cups almond milk
1 tsp. ginger
1/3 cup sugar
slivered almonds (optional)
Poach chicken breasts in water until thoroughly cooked. Skim broth and add rice. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer 15 minutes (there will be a lot of water, that's good). Pulverize chicken breasts in food processor or dice ultra-fine. Drain rice thoroughly and return to pot. Stir in 1 cup almond milk, ginger and sugar. Thoroughly mix in chicken. Cook, stirring often, over low heat, adding almond milk by quarter-cupfuls until all liquid is absorbed. Dish can be garnished with slivered almonds fried in clear oil, if desired.
Rissoles au commun (Ordinary Rissoles) - Le Ménagier de Paris
yield - about 30 small rissoles
Pastry:
1/2 cup warm water
3-4 Tbsp. olive oil
1/2 tsp. salt
pinch saffron
1-1/2 cup flour
OR: egg roll or won ton wrappers (I used these)
Filling:
1 large apple
3 Tbsp. raisins
4 small dried figs
1/2 cup chopped walnuts
1/4 tsp. ginger
1/4 tsp. cinnamon
scant 1/8 tsp ground cloves
1/2 tsp. rice flour (if needed)
lard for frying
If making the pastry, mix together water, oil, salt and saffron then stir in flour a bit at a time. Turn onto a floured board and knead until smooth. Cover with a damp cloth and let rest 1/2 hour. Roll out dough to the thickness of a dime, cut into preferred shape about 4" across. When filled, seal edges with a mixture of flour water and pinch tight. Several hours in advance bake the apple until cooked through, let cool thoroughly. Peel and core the baked apple. Coarsely chop apple, raisins, and figs. Add the walnuts and spices and mix well. If the filling seems too moist, add the rice flour. Spoon filling into middle of each pastry, fold and seal. Fry in hot (360-375 degree) lard until golden brown, turning once. Sprinkle with sugar or cinnamon-sugar mix. Alternately, rissoles can be baked at 400 degrees for 10-12 minutes.
Updated: May 28, 2003