Documentation:

Wiring:

I've found the maintance manual to be very valuable when trying to troubleshoot wiring problems, but unfortunatly there is no "wiring" section, there's diagrams in various sections, in the charging section, in the lighting section, etc. I've found the harness full of wiring to be a little overwhelming, especially when I'm laying on my back trying to look up under the dash. After a loose connection caused me a little trouble, and after going between the book and car a few times, I finally decided it was time to make a list of all the wires going through the fire wall, where they are located, and what they do. I made this from a car with 2 speed wipers (they aren't part of the harness), I'll update things like 1 speed wipers and A/C as I get a chance. The descriptions may be a little crude at this point too. Also, the location of the wires may vary, I'm not sure. The connectors are keyed so they can't be connected wrong, but can easily be flipped 180 degrees, or swapped top to bottom, so if yours doesn't match make sure it's mounted the same way.

 1     4
 o o o o
 o o o o
 5     8

 9     12
 o o o o
 o o o o
13     16


1 green: 	Brake light switch
2 green/red:	Brake light switch
3 red/blue:	Starter sol. (from key)
4 n/c*		(black to wipers on Fairlane)
5 white/red:	oil pressure sensor
6 red and brown:coil (red runs to the coil, brown to the starter sol.,
		a pink ballast connects here under the dash.  It routes
		to bullet connector just behind the ignition switch)
7 red/white:	temp sensor
8 yellow:	large gauge, battery to amp gauge (blue to wipers on
		Fairlane)
9 n/c*
10 white/blue:	right turn signal
11 green:	left turn signal
12 black/yellow:running lights (tail lights)
13 green/black:	head lights
14 red/black:	head lights
15 black:	large gauge, from voltage reg. to fuses
15 blue/yellow:	horn

One area where I see some confusion is the amp gauge and connections to the battery. The system is a lot simpler that it might seem at first, the meter is between the battery and the rest of the electrical system (with the exception of the starter). This way, any current coming from the battery causes the gauge to read "discharge", any current going to the battery shows a "charge". Because of this, you would want to have any accessories (or an alternater if you've got one) connected to the "other" side of the gauge. The Fairlane doesn't have a gauge, but a light instead, so the wiring is a little different (I've included some of the Fairlane wiring above). The black wire connected to the "battery" terminal of the voltage regualtor is the perfect place for this under the hood, there is also a junction behind the gauge on the right side of the bracket where the brake peddle is mounted. This might seem like a less direct way to connect to the battery, but when the car is running, you're actually connected closer the generator, which should be providing most of the power. Remember to add a fuse to be safe though! If you need to connect an accessory that's key switched, there is a threaded post on the back of the key switch just for this, actually, Ford used this just for that purpose!

Broken V8 dipsticks:

One thing I've found is that often times the handle on the dipstick used on the 221 and 260 is broken. I don't know if that's just my bad luck or if they didn't hold up, but it's frustrated me for many years. Ford changed the dipstick tube in 1965 when they used an alternator standard instead of a generator. Basically this means a replacement dipstick has to come from a 62-64 V8 motor. After years of using dipsticks that were tack-welded back together or that looked home-made, I finally took my tape measure to the junkyard on a quest to find something else that would work. What I ended up with is the dipstick out of a GM V6 from the mid-80s as used in the S10 and blazer. These are very close to the origional in the distance from the handle to the markings, though I can't veryify if it's 100% dead on. As an added bonus, they don't use a cheezy plastic T handle but rather a handle that's similar to what you would find in a 60s GM car.

Correct tires size?:

After realizing how far my speedometer and odometer were from being accurate, I set out on a quest to figure out what the correct tire size would be for my car. When I got my first Meteor in the 90s, tire shops told me that a 185 or 195 75 R14 would be about the same as the stock tires. Turns out that this wasn't quite accurate. The origional bias ply tires were 7.0x14 (6.5x14 were optional as well). Converted to metric, that's roughly a 178/90R14 (as far as I can determine, bias ply tires were roughly a 90 series in the early 60s), which would be a little skinner and a little bigger around than the radials I used to run. In that regard, the tire shops had it right, a 195 75 R14 is kinda close in width and height.... but I don't want the odometer error and the extra gas useage and engine wear, so I'm more concered about diameter than width. Wider tires are common place now anyway. After some research, I found that a 215 75 R14 is about the same diameter, maybe a little over, and a 205 75 R14 is the tire of choice for many Fairlane owners (which basically shares the same chassis) as they avoid some rubbing issues in the front. I chose to get 15" wheels for a couple cars, both to help with the need for a larger diameter tire, and because I like the looks of a lower profile tire. I found that a 205 70 R15 is very close in diameter to the origional bias ply tires, and now have my odometer/speedometer accuracy back after switching. There may still be some minor rubbing on hard turns in the front, but not any worse than I had with 14s. Also white walls seems to be fairly common in this size. A 195 75 R15 is just slightly larger diameter yet (very slightly) so it may be a good option too. I've found that '65-'67 Galaxie/full-size Mercury rims use the same center hole as the stock rim and work great for a stock look. Stock dog-dish hubcaps fit them nicely as well.

Motor Mounts:

I'm only familar with the V8 mounts, sorry I can't be much help if you've got a 170 or 200. The first V8 mounts, used in '62, have a 6" spacing between the bolt holes. When the 289 was introduced, an additional freeze plug was added to the block, and the motor mount was changed to 7" hole spacing. This was not unique to the 289, all V8s, 221, 260, and 289 all went the the 7" spacing early in the 1963 model year. Because of that, you will find all stock '62s and a few early '63s that won't have the correct motor mounts for a later engine. The mounts can be found in later '63 Meteors and Fairlanes, as well as '64-'65 Fairlanes. Just the top plate can be swapped, or the whole mount.

Window Regulators:

For some reason, Ford changed the window regulators and window frame (the metal piece clamped on the bottom of the glass) between '62 and '63. I discovered this the hard way when trying to replace the drivers front door - the donor door was a '63 and the origional regulator out of the '62 was the wrong length. I found that the frame on the bottom of the glass was changed along with the regulator and they would need to be swapped as a pair. Instead, I was able to use the regulator out of a '64 Fairlane door, as this was identical to the '63. I don't know if this is unique to 4 doors, if the back doors are affected, or if it was a model year change or a running change. Just something to check before replacing your glass or regulator.

Registry:

Paul Erlandson is keeping a Meteor registry, you can e-mail him at pcerlandson at earthlink dot net. There is also a registry at Crazyformercurys.com, and the information is all listed on the website.

Ford Carburetor Forum, includes the Autolite 2100 used on the Meteor.

Ford Windsor Small Block Forum, includes the 221, 260, and 289 used in the Meteor.

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Last updated: 3/11/15